Learn how to crochet C2C (Corner to Corner)

How to Crochet C2C | Corner to Corner Crochet Tutorial (From Yarn Store to Finished Blanket)

I still remember the first time I came across C2C — Corner to Corner crochet — and thought, “Okay, this looks complicated… but also kinda addicting.” Fast forward to last weekend, I decided to dive in headfirst. This post details exactly how to crochet C2C from scratch, based entirely on my personal journey. Yarn runs, knots, triumphs — all of it. If you’re wondering how to start C2C crochet or just looking to fine-tune your technique in 2025, this comprehensive tutorial is for you.

Step 1: Gathering Your C2C Crochet Supplies

So I grabbed my keys, slipped on some sandals (rookie mistake during yarn sales — those aisles get wild), and headed to the nearest craft store. I walked straight to the yarn section like a woman on a mission. For my first C2C project, and what I recommend for beginners learning how to crochet C2C, I picked:

• Yarn: 3 skeins of medium worsted weight yarn (100% acrylic is great for practice and affordability)
• Crochet Hook: 5.5mm crochet hook (a classic size for worsted yarn)
• Tools: A pair of sharp scissors
• Finishing: Yarn needle (for weaving in ends — trust me, you’ll need it for a neat C2C finish)

I also tossed a chocolate bar in the cart — mental fuel counts, right? Don't underestimate the need for snacks during a crochet session!

Step 2: What is C2C Crochet? Understanding the Basics

C2C literally means you start from one corner and build your project diagonally toward the opposite corner. Instead of working in straight rows like traditional crochet, you build tiny diagonal blocks (often called tiles or pixels) that form a grid. This technique is fantastic for graphgans (picture blankets) but also creates a lovely texture on its own.

I watched about 3 YouTube videos before it clicked. The good news? If you know these basic crochet stitches, you're ready to learn how to crochet C2C:

• Chain stitch (ch)
• Double crochet (dc) - US terms
• Slip stitch (sl st)

Essentially, each "block" in C2C consists of a chain-3 (which counts as the first double crochet) and 3 double crochet stitches.

Step 3: How to Start C2C Crochet - The Increasing Rows

This is where the magic begins. You'll start building your C2C project from the very first corner. Here’s how I started, and the standard way to begin increasing:

1. Start: Make a slip knot and chain 6 (ch 6).
2. First Block: Double crochet (dc) in the 4th chain from the hook. Then work 1 dc in each of the next 2 chains (5th and 6th chains). (Total: ch-3 + 3 dc). This is your first C2C block.
3. Row 2 Start: Turn your work. Chain 6 (ch 6).
4. Row 2 Block: Double crochet (dc) in the 4th chain from the hook, and in the next 2 chains (just like step 2). You've made the first block of Row 2.
5. Row 2 Connect: Now, locate the chain-3 space on the *top* of the block from Row 1. Slip stitch (sl st) into that chain-3 space to connect your new block.
6. Row 2 Finish: Chain 3 (ch 3 - counts as first dc), then work 3 double crochet (3 dc) stitches *into the same chain-3 space* you just slip stitched into. Row 2 is complete (2 blocks total).
7. Row 3 and Onwards (Increasing): Turn your work. Chain 6. Make a block (dc in 4th, 5th, 6th ch from hook). Slip stitch into the ch-3 space of the *nearest* block from the previous row. Chain 3, work 3 dc into that same space. Slip stitch into the next ch-3 space of the next block from the previous row. Chain 3, work 3 dc into that same space.

You'll repeat this pattern for every increasing row: Start with a ch 6, make a block, then sl st, ch 3, 3 dc into each chain-3 space across the row. Every new row adds one more block than the row before. Before I knew it, I had a small triangle forming. It felt like pixel art but with yarn – very satisfying!

Step 4: Reaching Your Desired Width (The Middle Part)

Once my C2C triangle reached the width I wanted for my baby blanket (around 20 blocks across one side), it was time to stop increasing and start working towards a rectangle shape. This is where the corner to corner crochet technique shifts slightly.

Instead of always starting a new row with a ch 6 (which adds a block), you need to maintain the width or height. If you're making a square, you'll start decreasing on one side while still increasing on the other. If you're making a rectangle (like I often do for blankets), you'll work sections where you decrease on one end of the row and increase on the other. For this simple blanket, I decided to make a square, so I moved straight to decreasing.

(Note: Making a rectangle involves alternating increase/decrease starts once you reach the desired shorter side's length. That's a topic for another day, but the core block-making stays the same!)

If you're like me and have a cat who sees yarn as a personal invitation to play, expect some tactical maneuvers during this phase. Keep that yarn ball protected!

Step 5: How to Decrease in C2C Crochet

Here comes the part that shapes the other half of your project, turning your triangle into a square (or completing a rectangle). Decreasing in C2C essentially means you stop adding that extra block at the start of the row.

• Start Decrease Row: Turn your work. **Do NOT chain 6.** Instead, slip stitch (sl st) across the top of the 3 double crochet stitches of the *last* block you made in the previous row. You want to get your hook over to that block's chain-3 space.
• First Block of Decrease Row: Once you've slip stitched into the chain-3 space, chain 3 (ch 3 - counts as first dc), and then work 3 double crochet (3 dc) into that *same* chain-3 space.
• Continue Across: Work across the rest of the row exactly as you did before: slip stitch (sl st) into the next block's chain-3 space, then ch 3, 3 dc into that same space. Repeat for each block.
• End of Decrease Row: When you reach the last block of the row, work your final sl st, ch 3, 3 dc into its chain-3 space. Then, simply turn your work. **Do NOT make an extra block on the end.**

You’ll repeat this decreasing process for every row from now on. Each row will have one less block than the previous one. Your triangle slowly morphs back into a point at the opposite corner.

I had to frog (unravel) a few rows — okay, maybe five — because I got distracted and chained 6 out of habit. But hey, learning how to crochet C2C involves fixing mistakes! It’s all part of the game.

Step 6: Finishing Your C2C Project - Weaving in Ends

This part’s not glamorous, but it’s essential for a professional-looking C2C piece. I used my yarn needle to meticulously weave in all the loose starting and ending tails, plus any ends from joining new skeins.

My pro-tip: Weave the end in one direction for about an inch, then weave back in the opposite direction through nearby stitches before trimming. This helps secure it properly. My first blanket looked like it went through a catfight because I rushed this part. Don't be like past-me!

I try to do this while watching Netflix — otherwise it’s just plain boring but so necessary for making your C2C crochet look polished.

What I Made: A C2C Crochet Baby Blanket

The final piece? A cozy, colorful square baby blanket that looked way fancier than the effort suggested. The diagonal texture created by learning how to crochet C2C is really unique.

I added a simple border (3 rounds of single crochet) around the entire edge — just to give it a clean, finished look. It came out so nice that my aunt already asked me to make another for her dog. Yes, her dog. C2C is versatile!

Pro Tips for Your First C2C Crochet Project (Wish I Knew These!)

• Mark Your Right Side/Start: Especially when you start decreasing, mark the 'right side' or the corner you started with using a stitch marker. It helps maintain orientation.
• Count Your Blocks: Seriously. Every few rows, count the blocks along one side. It's easy to accidentally add or miss one, especially when tired. Counting helps catch errors early.
• Use Good Lighting & Contrast: I once tried learning a C2C graphgan pattern with dark blue yarn at midnight. Big mistake. Use light-colored yarn or ensure excellent lighting so you can actually see your stitches and chain spaces.
• Don’t Panic About Curling: Early C2C work, especially the triangle part, can curl a bit. It usually flattens out as the project grows, and blocking after finishing works wonders.
• Manage Your Yarn Tails: If changing colors often (like for graphgans), use yarn bobbins or small balls for each color section to avoid a tangled mess behind your work.

Quick-Start C2C Crochet Checklist

Feeling inspired to try the corner to corner crochet method? Here’s your bare-bones list to get started:

• ✅ Yarn (Approx. 3 skeins of worsted weight for a small project like a baby blanket or pillow cover)
• ✅ 5.5mm (I-9) crochet hook (or size recommended for your yarn)
• ✅ Yarn needle + Scissors
• ✅ Patience and snacks (highly recommended, non-negotiable!)

Once you’ve got those, you’re ready to tackle your first C2C project — one block at a time. You now know the basics of how to crochet C2C!

Conclusion: You Can Master C2C Crochet!

Learning how to crochet C2C doesn’t need to be intimidating. If I can go from buying yarn on a whim to finishing a full baby blanket using the corner to corner technique in one weekend (okay, a *long* weekend), so can you! Start with the basic increase and decrease steps outlined here, expect some mistakes (they're learning opportunities!), and most importantly, enjoy the unique process of building fabric diagonally.

And hey, if you end up addicted and making C2C everything — don’t say I didn’t warn you. It’s a wonderfully versatile stitch!

Got questions about how to crochet C2C? Drop them in the comments below! Or share what your first C2C project was (or will be!). Bonus points if it involved yarn battles with pets or kids!